Exploring Hot Springs of Taptapani with Savaari

Some marvels of nature, like hot springs, are still a mystery for us humans. These naturally-formed pools of water are rich in minerals and have healing powers, which many modern medicines probably don’t have. They always remain warm, irrespective of the weather changes, and have been curing people of various diseases for eons. I had yet to see this miracle with my own eyes.

A few months ago, my mother and I planned a quick weekend trip to Taptapani. One of the four famous hot springs of Odisha, Taptapani is known for its perennial pools of medicinal sulfuric water which have curative properties. Dating back to as far as 300 years, these springs are located in a scenic natural setting of forests and streams, making it a complete vacation spot. Taptapani lies near the town of Mohana in Ganjam district. It was a six-hour drive from Bhubaneshwar, and to make it comfortable, we booked a licensed taxi service in Bhubaneswar. Of all rentals available, we found the best deal with Savaari, where we could keep the car with us, throughout the trip, and that too for a reasonable fare.

Staying in Taptapani

The only place to stay in Taptapani is the Panthanivas, run by the state tourism department. But the setting of this place was as beautiful as it could get. The cottages overlooked a pristine valley and being late winter, there was a very fine layer of mist. The dining area of the guest house sat in between two mountain folds, exposing us to more views of the surrounding landscape. It seemed like the perfect place to unwind for the next two days and my mother and I instantly fell in love with the setting. It was serene and scenic, with the chirping of birds and gurgling of streams running in the background. At night, only the droning sounds of the crickets prevailed.

We spent most of our first day soaking in the sun on the wide verandah of our guesthouse and breathing the fresh mountain air. It was an ideal place to feel one with nature.

Next day, we started with a walk down the winding hill road and through the canopies trails. We reached a deer park, which was basically an enclosed forested area inhabited by Sambar deer and the famous black buck. It is maintained by the forest department and makes for relaxing walk and absorb the greenery.

Visiting the hot springs

The forests around Taptapani are old tribal settlements and the hot springs are associated with their religious beliefs. There was a temple of Kandhuni Devi, the local reigning deity, where the villagers would often flock to worship and offer prayers. The temple also celebrates important annual festivals and tribal rituals.

Fortunately, we had our Savaari rental car to drive us around. So we headed to the Kandimata Mandir, where the locals worship the Kandhuni Devi and take a dip in the pond containing hot spring water. The temple complex housed a shrine and a pond, enclosed within a circular tank. The deity was way different than what one would find in other temples. The goddess is worshipped in the form of stones, which rest on the hot springs. It is believed that she blesses the childless with children and that is why we found a lot of women offering prayers at the pond. Apart from the female devotees, there were a lot of ailing people trying to heal from the medicinal waters of the springs. The locals also believe that the water of the hot springs can also bring a miraculous harvest. Farmers are said to often sprinkle the spring water on the fields for better yield.

No one knew where the springs of Taptapani originated. There is a legend that says that originally, these springs emerged in the forests of Belagada, about two kilometers from its current location. But that water eventually dried up and the spring ceased to exist. Then one day, the goddess appeared in the local priest’s dream and guided him to the location of the spring, as is found today. The relics of the earlier hot springs can still be found in its original place.

The night before we left for home, the guest house staff arranged for some of the guests to visit the villages of the Saora tribe in the vicinity of the forest. It was a full moon night and the locals were hosting a festival, with dance, music, and tribal food. The forests were aglow in the moonlight and the oil lamps from the village huts glimmered almost in the same rhythm of the drums, and the feet-tapping music awakened the sleepy forests.

Pro Tips:

To get a real feel of Taptapani, spend at least two days here.

If you have time, you can also do a joint tour of Taptapani and Chandragiri.

Always get a reliable and comfortable car on rent in Bhubaneswar for a better travel experience.